LED Angel Eye Ring Set in OE Supplier

An electrical part: the halo rings, which are a known failure on the E90 and a very visible one.

We are an independent parts supplier. We are not BMW AG or MINI, we are not appointed by them, and BMW and MINI are their trademarks. What we sell are parts that fit those cars, described as such. Every listing states the chassis codes and engine codes it fits, the production date range, which quality tier you are buying, the labour time the job actually takes, and whether the part needs coding to the car before it will work. Where a part is only made in plastic by the factory and fails because it is plastic, we say so and we offer the metal one.

Specification and fitment

• Fits: 1 Series E87 E88 F20, 3 Series E90 E91 E92 E93 F30 F31, 4 Series F32 F33 F36, 5 Series E60 F10, X1 E84 F48, X3 E83 F25, X5 E70 F15, Mini R56 F56 R60
• Engine: body modules are not engine specific. Engine sensors are, and the listing is filtered by the chassis you choose above. These cars change mid production, sometimes twice in a model year, and two cars built four months apart can take different parts. Send us the last seven digits of your VIN with the order and we check the part against the build record before anything is dispatched. It takes us two minutes and it is the difference between a part that fits and a return.
• Production dates: 2004 to 2019 depending on chassis
• Quality: made by the firm that supplies the vehicle manufacturer, in that firm's own box rather than a dealer box. Identical part, identical line, no dealer margin, and this is what we would fit ourselves
• Part number: cross referenced to the original equipment number for your VIN and confirmed before dispatch. We do not publish a single number against a listing that covers several build variants, because that is how people order the wrong part
• The failure this addresses: an intermittent electrical fault that a garage has already changed two parts for, a module that stopped responding after a flat battery or a jump start, or a warning light with a fault code that names a module rather than a sensor
• Labour time: thirty minutes to three hours depending on where the module lives
• Coding: no coding, but the adaptation values want resetting with a diagnostic tool afterwards or the car will run on the old learned figures for a while
• Also needed: a battery support unit during any coding, because a voltage dip part way through programming is how a module becomes scrap
• Torque: not applicable to most modules
• Weight: approximately 0.4 kilograms
• Warranty: two years or 24,000 miles, whichever comes first
• Battery registration: the battery must be registered to the intelligent battery sensor after replacement, or the charging strategy stays set for the old battery and the new one is ruined within about two years. This is a five minute diagnostic job and it is skipped constantly
• Breakers: a module from a scrapyard is usually locked to its original VIN and a great many cannot be unlocked at all. We code to your VIN before dispatch, which is the whole reason to buy here rather than there
• Diagnose first: an ABS light is a sixty two pound wheel speed sensor far more often than it is a module. We read the codes for free and take the charge off any repair
• Water ingress: the junction box and the footwell module both sit where water goes when a scuttle drain blocks. Clear the drains or the new module follows the old one

What arrives

• the part, coded to your VIN where it needs coding
• connector seals and pins where applicable
• fitting and coding notes
• a test report where the unit is remanufactured

Fitting

Thirty minutes to three hours. Anything that needs coding needs a stable supply while it is being coded, which is why a dealer plugs a charger in before touching a module. Send us the VIN with the order and the part arrives ready to plug in.

Which version to buy

The single most expensive mistake in this category is buying a module from a breaker. Most of them are married to the car they came out of and a great many cannot be unlocked at any price. The second most expensive is replacing a module when the fault is a sensor: an ABS light is usually a wheel speed sensor, a VANOS code is usually a solenoid, a no start is usually a crank sensor. We will read the codes for nothing and tell you which it is.